Lech’s Almhof Schneider Hotel offers luxurious elegance in the mountains. If you are looking for the elite ski vacation mixed with the traditional and elegant, then Lech in Austria has to be high on your agenda.
Depending on who you follow, or to a certain extent which part of the world you travel to, there are between 10 and 20 top luxury ski resorts. Lech continually ranks in this elite group of luxury ski resorts and The Almhof Schneider Hotel is without doubt luxurious, surrounded by the traditional trappings of family and interestingly a touch of James Bond mixed with arthouse chic. This is clearly depicted in the hallway to the sub level car park that looks more like a Manhattan Art Gallery.
Hotel Almhof Schneider
Tannberg 59, 6764 Lech
T: +43 5583 3500
- Families
The families of Lech go back to the 1500s and The Schneiders have been a highly important and respected family in this area. Like The Schneider Family, families are an important part of the hotel and resort as they return year after year to a much-loved place where hospitality, attention to detail and comfort reign.
This is a resort we have visited before and like seeing old friends and family we are welcomed increasingly as returning friends. Indeed, I am part of this tradition as I learnt to ski 50 years ago in Lech’s adjoining resort Zurs and I return for that very same reason: Lech’s focus on class and traditions but infused with modern technology.
Do not think that this traditional family sleeps on its merits for when you visit this hotel you will most likely notice consciously or unconsciously that you are entering a hotel designed with intent and intelligence.
- The Almhof Schneider Hotel
Upon entering the hotel there is a feeling of calm and order but also compassion, with attention paid to conveying a sense of relaxation and style. The acoustics create warmth and intimacy which is surely lacking in many large properties and the lighting also reflects this focus on detail.
The lighting is not bold and brash but creates rooms within rooms, is artistic, occasionally you might think dark, but in the wonderful way art galleries give directional light. Lighting in this hotel has been carefully crafted and used with purpose, which I adored.
Art and photography as previously mentioned is key, from the basement to the corridors you will see slightly dark Mona Lisa Paintings mixed with contemporary black and white photography and then a dash of pop art.
So, it might come as no surprise that the hotel’s master of ceremonies is Gerold Schneider along with his wife Katia Schneider. Combined they share a background in architecture, design and philosophy and are very active in the local art community, owning a gallery as well.
- The Journey
We arrived from our flight via London City to Zurich and then an easy journey by car to the resort. One can also do the combination of train and car to Lech (Der Lecher +43 5583 2501)
Snow was falling as we arrived and after checking in we just enjoyed looking out from our bedroom to the view of snow on the local church steeple, the gentle and beautiful peace you get from the quiet pitter patter of falling snow. The Lady Butler and I stopped and enjoyed life’s national therapy.
Art is an integral part to Lech as we found out when on a beautifully atmospheric late afternoon, we snowshoed up the mountain…
- Romantic adventure in the mountains – Snowshoe Tour to Skyspace Lech
Walk through Lech town centre and soon after the church on the right you will arrive at The Oberlech Cable Car where by the way you must try the two toboggan rides (get a little sledge from your hotel or hire from the Cable Car Office) but today we were being taken on an art experience which turned into a truly magical time. The Lady Butler and I put on our snowshoes at the top of the cable car with Rene from the Tourist Office. It was late afternoon so though people were on the mountain, the late afternoon ski wind down was starting. As Rene started us up the mountain the snow was falling, and with the conversation flowing one can feel the place we were in.
After about a 45 minute walk up the mountain we arrived at this relatively new addition to Lech’s offering: Skyspace a domelike, round room with artistic lighting and dramatic interior.
I felt very happy and calm. We were doing what both of us loved which was exploring and taking in sensual experiences and with The Lady Butler being a lover of art this ticked a lot of boxes. For me the fact that this was a bit of an adventure was lovely too, as Rene had to knock out the snow to get in and once you are in yes you can take in the facts, but my advice is do not think just stop, feel, watch and experience not only architecture meets design meets James Bond, but really just take in the feeling.
It was truly a MAGICAL EXPERIENCE. As the snow fell, we were alone on the mountain as darkness came down.
The juxtaposition of feeling like Scott of the Antarctic and part feeling I was in a snow spa was very beautiful. For me, a person who adores exploring sensuality (a subject that I believe is at the heart of true luxury) this connection between friends, conversation, nature, weather and art was very special.
In many ways it was quite simple but like so many of life’s beautiful experiences simplicity is key. And the secret to a luxury experience is to do it well.
Lech at night in the snow - Cuisine
Lunch in the hotel. I always have had a good appetite. I think the temptation when arriving to a resort is to go into hyperdrive.
For me this time with my girlfriend was very rewarding. Lunchtime in a ski resort, particularly in the hotel can be a little like bunking off school in that it gives you the freedom to just slow down and let go and you also see a different and more relaxed crowd dining.
The dark walls, chic bar and intimate lighting with the peaceful falling snow outside were special.
And we were told the left-over food gets turned into food for the farm animals. Fabulous.
- Ski Tech
Strolz ski rental shop +43 5583 2361
I took my boots in to get set up with my skis but do remember they can also check your own skis as they did with The Lady Butler, definitely worth doing if your skis have been tucked in the corner since last season. In the village centre of Lech (make sure to check-in before your arrival)
- A day in the life of skier in a luxury ski resort.
Sleep …pillows are lush and waking up to look over the village spire in the snow….
Breakfast …all the staff really do work super hard and look impeccable in the traditional Dirndl dresses and Johannes the restaurant manager, well where does he get his energy from, a real bundle of joy and makes one feel very welcome ….
Get ready for Skiing …get dressed in the chic locker room,
then straight outside to meet our ski instructor, a lovely Hungarian chap from Ski School Lech +43 5583 2355 …we skied through the deep snow to the central chair lift area in Lech… He was very easy going, assessed our skiing ability and then tailored our instruction. He skis down gives instruction and then watches us and so on. We have both skied for years but one forgets or forms bad habits so its useful to have a couple of days of instruction as it gets one off on the right path. …
Lunch …Ski Hut Der WOLF +43 664 2012244 our favourite place to eat up the mountain…very cool but also friendly and had a good vibe….
Afternoon Ski…Some days we skied more than others in the afternoon……take it easy to start with ….
Late Afternoon in the Hotel…Back to the hotel for tea, a lie down and a snooze and I had one of the best afternoon sleeps I have had in years …..the feeling which should be bottled ….shower …..
Early Evening…dress and down for dinner ….then sit in the bar area for a coffee or a drink or just watch the world go by and then back to our room and open the windows briefly to take in the magical feeling and smell of being in the mountains…..
- Letting go and skiing for Joy
Usually after a few days the skiing is in a groove, the sun is shining and the energy is flowing …
The Lady Butler and I had one such day in particular which really brings all the ducks in a row….through the trees,
some fast bits, turns flowing and taking in the Vitamin D of the mountain sun.
These days really are bliss and then down to the village for a late lunch at the famous Schneggarei in Lech for Pizza and beer.
- Let your soul run free and experience art and the solitude and romance of an afternoon out
Some days maybe stop skiing at 3sh and then get the opportunity to see another side of the snowy world. We took the bus from Lech town centre (part of your ski pass) to Kunstraum Zug, run by Gerold Schneider.
A collection of contemporary sculpture surrounded by snow, solitude and peace…had a good chat, looked at the art and then walked from late afternoon dusk into darkness along by river through the trees
to dinner to meet Hermann Fercher Tourismusdirektor & CEO of Lech Tourism. We were having dinner at the Hotel Schwarzwand run by a lady that understands art and olive oil due to her background in Italy.
One of the things I enjoyed was the bar area that made me think I was in the late 60’s with a slightly beatnik jazzy feel ……A perfect place to feel a different mood, followed by a beautiful meal of contemporary Italian cuisine
and after slightly too much to drink, back to the hotel later than normal and then crash …..…
Tannbergbrucke bridge in Lech, Arlberg, Austria in the snow at night - Last few hours in the ski resort
To the top of the mountain and beyond……time to see some sights…up the Rufikopf Cable Car to get a last feel of the stunning mountains ….
then down for lunch at the famous Hus Nr. 8 +43 5583 33220 which never fails to impress offering traditional Austrian food, perfect for the mountains.
……Back to the hotel, check out and then we have a couple of hours until our our taxi. A great idea to enjoy some SPA TIME in the hotel. Anoushka from the front desk showed us around and then we enjoyed pool and sauna time.
After days of skiing its therapeutic to relax ones muscles before a long journey but also emotionally good to decompress and take in your holiday.
Sometimes it is just the case of people doing things very well and that’s what The Almhof Schneider and Lech do. Talking with Hermann I raised the subject of climate change and unsurprisingly Lech have run the figures and the results are good as the geography of Lech with their high snowfall means that even with increased temperature the snow will continue to fall.
Lech forecasts good skiing well into the future. I love the excellent skiing and delicious food, but also the variety of things there are to do which explains why multi-generational families return year after year.
And like them, I look forward to returning to a place increasingly feeling like friends.
Special thanks to The Lady Butler for all her contributions.
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