Delphina Luxury Hotels on Sardinia’s rugged north coast.
We chose three hotels as they represent Delphina’s five-star hotels but also because, as our trip progressed, we saw how they linked together and were indeed like a family with Delphina’s 3 amigos: D’Orso, Erica and Marinedda.
Delphina’s Sardinian Luxury Hotels
The trio, like the Three Musketeers, enjoy companionship with friendship being a key ingredient of the Delphina brand and like some good gelato, a different flavour in each for you to savour.
Capo D’Orso is the elder brother, Valle Dell’Erica the fun and friendly daughter, La Marinedda the hippie chick.
You can obviously choose your holiday as you like but our advice would be to follow our route staying preferably 9 nights with 3 at Capo D’Orso, 2 at Valle Dell’Erica and 4 at La Marinedda.
There is also a logic to the order in that they offer different qualities which fit very well within the requirements of a summer holiday as I always feel there is a difference to the start, middle and end of a vacation.
One day in late May, two intrepid explorers set sail on the late afternoon HMS Easyjet Air sailing out of Gatwick courtesy of our blue and pleasant skies, arriving in Olbia which is situated toward the northern tip of Sardinia.
Our EasyJet flight was on time, clean and I was very impressed by their chicer styling which applies to both the uniform and interiors.
On arrival at Olbia, we headed over to pick up our Hertz rental car.
It was here that my blood pressure went up as the rent-a-car debacle started. This meant that after insurance the true cost was three times the original booking done online.
My advice would be if this kind of thing annoys you, check very carefully your insurance details prior to arrival.
That being said, we got to drive a beautifully clean white Fiat which was exactly what I wanted. I only drive every so often so it’s always an adventure, but it was perfect for bombing around the island.
The next part of our adventure should really have a keystone cops theme, as our journey from the airport took us around roundabouts and one way systems for quite some time.
I had completely forgotten to use Satnav which meant going round in circles for over an hour testing our patience and then me snapping and just saying “Is this road heading north?”, kind of feeling that if we were heading in the right direction at least that was a good start.
Once we did, apart from driving uphill into a little village courtyard obviously to test the car’s turning circle and my driving skills, we got on our way and sometime -I believe after 11 oclock and about 90 minutes late- I seem to remember we saw the sign posts for our first home.
Capo D’Orso
https://www.delphinahotels.co.uk/sardinia/hotels/capodorso/
Driving down a windy little road with the sea in sight I drove up to the front door, tired and a little fraught as I was hungry… the moral of the tale is remember to use satnav.
We arrived at the front door with a charming young chap saying, “We will take your car”. Now having endured the Hertz car rental insurance escapade I did not want to hand over my keys at which point as I peered out of the car door I saw the beaming hotel manager Maurio, looking impeccable in his Italian suit and full of charm and hospitality. He could tell I was frazzled and said, “Come in and eat!”. These were the words I wanted to hear and as we were escorted to some seats, a plate of food arrived and a bottle of Sardinian red was poured. Mmm yes yes yes …. and then soon after Maurio escorted me to view the ocean and wow….
ALL GOOD …..
Capo D’Orso positioned nearly at the northern tip of Sardinia is nestled in pine trees, literally on the water, with seas surrounding it and multiple decks built into the rocks for sunbathing. Paths meander throughout the resort giving it a natural but planned layout. It is really very charming …..yes, it’s a hotel and not a village but it has a feeling that it is very unspoilt, which is a central part of Delphina Hotels’ ethos. They have won numerous environmental awards to back this up.
Friendship and the environment are core, which in many ways are words that are interchangeable.
While there, we enjoyed hikes along the coastline, stopping to dip our toes in the crystal clear blue water and soaking up the warm Sardinian sunshine. There were walks down to the beach to enjoy a bit of reading and sunbathing and taking a short wander ankle deep in the surf.
The staff even arranged for a special boat trip with local sailing guides to other islands. One of our boat stops was at a protected site where we were allowed to wander with instructions to respect the flora and fauna and take no sand ,pebbles or shells with us. Sardinia is clearly working at protecting its resources.
Walks …..adored, particularly to Light House… really loved….
Food ……have to bottle the feel of sitting outside under the trees eating breakfast ….you can feel and smell the serenity
Location ………………..winding, secluded and very romantic
Boat trip … felt like a pirate seeing the old sails in full flight….
Spa time – All the spa staff were very helpful and its a must to enjoy the bubbles…
The Neighbours – Had some picturesque drives locally …..you should try to experience this in the evening as the sunshine low in the sky is idyllic …..
Dinner …………….
mmmmm…
Valle Dell’Erica –
https://www.delphinahotels.co.uk/sardinia/hotels/valle-erica/
The drive there was beautiful, with a rugged grace. From Capo D’Orso you head inland and west, and you can do this within an hour.
As I drove through big gates off a rural country road, I was reminded of the big doors that you see in the film Jurassic Park, and as we drove through and along what is the driveway that looks like a small road, that initial observation proved to be correct. The foliage definitely felt more wild with a mix of tropical plants and rugged rocks.
Coming from Capo D’Orso, Valle Dell’Erica is larger and more open with wide vistas of the ocean and well designed modern accommodation.
The buildings and fragrant flowers give one the feel of walking through part hacienda and part Italian hilltop village. A lovely feature of the gardens was the incorporation of native plants which they also use in their cooking and spa products.
We parked in the rain in unseasonably drab weather and much cooler conditions, something I suspect the next century will see much more of as weather becomes increasingly unreliable. Later however, we were able to enjoy a leisurely walk along the dramatic coastline.
Guests can hop in resort buggies that take people around the grounds if you fancy. Perfect for excitable children or older people who may need a rest.
After leaving the car we walked down to the central reception area that gives the feel of a contemporary Spanish Hacienda. Not sure why I felt that, maybe it was the simple but elegant charm, the beautiful plants, the terracotta, the use of original artisan woodwork and tapestries and then the wide-open views of sky and beyond that the ocean. We must make special mention of the reception staff who were not only very friendly, but worked extremely hard.
Personally I wanted sun and heat but it remained a cold day. We still ventured out and it was stunningly beautiful to feel the sea breeze and watch the dramatic sea.
The big wide-open skies ……
The long beaches ……
Perfect for meandering coastline walk ….even in the rain, lots of sea glass….loved the unique rock formations and wandering along the sea coast….
Be sure to book a massage – Spot on…thank you…loved….though the Gentlemen’s changing room could do with a bench to sit down on.
Please remember to buy some of the Delphnia olive oil which they make themselves. Delphina’s fresh food products made in the right way are a big focus, supporting the environment and the local economy. With the number of eco awards the brand has received they are certainly doing something right.
Rooms – loved ours, the feel of native American art strangely enough …..and the looking glass …..
From there we headed along the coast to Santa Teresa Gallura on the northern tip of the island, where a stunning old light house sits atop the cliff with a view of jagged rocks jutting out of a wild and splashing sea below. If you like rocks and sea, well it’s a must …I loved …..
We then headed south west going inland along winding roads to Aggius where we discovered history and crafts of the area.
This historic village was home to our lovely guide, Claudia, who shared with us the local sites and museum.
The Museum MEOC exhibits a traditional Sardinian household starting in 1600,where one can view detailed costumes, experience historic daily life and see how the traditional crafts of weaving and basketry have evolved.
The baskets which hold Sardinia’s famous pane carasou, or flatbread, are common throughout the region. After a visit to a local artisan shop we headed further back to the coast and north east to Isola Rossa where we entered the oasis and a truly magnificent beach…..
La Marinedda
https://www.delphinahotels.co.uk/sardinia/hotels/marinedda/
I really loved the feel from the moment we arrived as it reminded me of beach holidays from when I was young.
It is perched high on the hill looking over a huge bay with big seas which I adore.
As with many of today’s hotels it has several restaurants. We had a late and much needed lunch with the hotel manager who is a true character, very friendly and highly suited to the hotel with his laid-back approach.
We had not even been booked in to stay the night but just a visit, so it was a total spur of the moment gut feeling as we decided to stay longer. Feeling the joy that comes from travelling as youngsters with backpacks we booked ourselves in with just a beach bag and swimming bits.
That afternoon we meandered down the hill through the bamboo to a big curved bay with a beautiful white beach restaurant/bar though we did not stop because all I wanted to do was feel the fine sand between my toes, the coastal wind on my face and the sensual and profound experience that big waves provide.
Waves ……………………Felt I was in surfing city
The view…….
Beach ………………………………to die for…just let go….
Laid back ……………………………..
The hours there were lovely, nice to see the sun….
Normally one could drive directly to the airport, but we still had some things at Valle Dell’Erica so headed back along the stunning coastal roads for a few hours (the road practically back to Capo D’Orso) where we stopped off in Palau to enjoy some stunning gelato. My other half shopped whilst I looked at the boats as our trip came to a close. Soon it was time for the Fiat to head south to the airport along winding roads of olive, myrtle and cork trees, this time not getting lost….
Though we seemed to be stuck behind a fuel truck the scenery in the late afternoon sun was really stunning.
I would advise, however, leaving plenty of time as you do have to go through central Olbia which gets very busy at rush hour. In addition, returning the hire car can add time to your trip. We tried to drop off our car and again had problems with signposts which made it difficult to get to the office. I was convinced we would miss our flight but literally by luck and some hustle we just made it.
The Delphina experience will give you lasting friendship, beautiful food with its traditional Sardinian flavours and natural, rugged and unspoilt scenery… all of which reflect Delphina’s warm hospitality and focus on the environment.
Let yourself wander and watch the world go by….