Oregon’s, Pacific Northwest, through the eyes of an Oregonian.
Oregon is a place with a little bit of something old and something new, set in a beautifully rugged part of the US combining the ocean, mountains and forests creating a feel of wild beauty.
A visit to Oregon, positioned north of California in the Pacific Northwest is known for its natural environment and for an all-inclusive way of living and I felt a community spirit with a touch of serenity about it.
One of the great reasons to travel is to experience something new, to give you a new perspective and to feel something different. I am pretty sure it will open your eyes to a gentler way of living.
Have you ever thought about your senses when you travel.
What does Oregon smell or look like?
Have you an idea of what Oregon sounds like? and what is the taste of Oregon?
When we return from our holidays, we empty our suitcase and the aura of the place we have visited usually presents itself.
Joining oceans and connecting peoples might sound cliched but they are really one of the most empowering and beautiful things about travel.
I flew London to Seattle return with Virgin Atlantic and you can read my thoughts here.
Virgin Atlantic Upper Class, your new travel memory
Whether you fall in love with a person, a place or you reconnect, seeing a face you have not seen in a while or the wonderful accidents that happen when you travel, meeting people who either know someone you know or just meeting a kindred spirit its all the rich tapestry of travel which is truly wonderful.
The best way to experience Oregon is with an Oregonian and that’s exactly what I did. Travel is about dreams, connecting, reconnecting and discovering.
Imagine, something different, an experience; and flavour the true emotions of the Pacific Northwest.
From Bridge to Bridge, take a drive on the wild side, let yourself breath and experience a part of a world that is very big on letting people be themselves with one of the most liberal societies in the US and arguably the world and if that’s the way they feel about people it’s no coincidence that they like letting nature be itself and supporting biodiversity.
I visited Oregon in the fall or Autumn for us Brits and it had been a 34-year gap since I had visited and 34 years later, I had reconnected and was returning to her neck of the woods.
Luxury travel comes in 2 forms. One is a human-made experience, and the other is all about accessing something special that feeds our senses.
Your Oregon Adventure
Do you speak American. Gregory Peck talked about the United States saying ”It’s a BIG COUNTRY” but in Oregon you have a feeling of an old school US mixed with a robot fuelled gender fluid tech inspired android, the result being a highly inclusive people with strong routes in freedom of being who you want to be.
This trip is more about the former though anyone that reads Gentlemans Butler will know how we support love and empathy, so we look forward to covering the gender inclusive Portland at another time.
A slight distraction but this beautiful clip of Cary Grant and Grace Kelly in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1955 “To Catch a Thief” delivers some beautiful dialogue about lumber, Oregon and the northwest. Ironically Cary Grant was born in England so rather apt for this feature.
Drive from Seattle to Astoria
Having landed in the sunshine in Seattle with Virgin Atlantic
It’s an easy drive south on route 5 to Kelso, by Longview and take a smaller road 4 north of the Columbia River, which is not only the largest river in Oregon but holds both historical and social importance. Drive east until you get to Megler, where you will see in front of you the mighty Astoria Megler Bridge.
Before you enter Oregon, we suggest you take in Cape Disappointment, past Deadmans Cove up to the lighthouse and look out towards Columbia River Bar.
It’s a great vista and will give you a grounding of where you are geographically but also emotionally.
ASTORIA – OLD SCHOOL AMERICAN VINTAGE with a lovely retro feeling
The Astoria-Megler Bridge is not only the longest continuous steel truss bridge in North America and the Pacific Northwest but it’s such a beautiful way to start your Oregon experience with the mighty Columbia Bar and the magnificent Pacific to your right and the beautiful town of Astoria in front of you. A town where you will find history with the Astoria Street Railway Company beginning a service in 1988 and on Christmas Eve 1885 direct current flowed from a small dynamo in a planer shed on West Shore Lumber Mills to light Astoria’s first electric lamps. Astoria is a snapshot of true vintage Americana and a perfect place to wander and take in local life.
The Benjamin Young Inn BnB
What better place to stay than at The Benjamin Young Inn BnB
I really do not want to sound cliched the owners have reinvented and taken on the mantle of restoring this great establishment as a beacon of historic Astoria. They run the Inn as custodians but also welcome you as friends which after a drive is just what you would.
You do not need to drive but walk along by the tram into town along waterfront.
You get to wake up and see this amazing view which should be in a painting.
Wander downstairs and take time to flick through the books showing the history of the Inn. Then sit down and enjoy a modern twist on a vintage American breakfast and get to enjoy meeting some fellow travellers.
Do have a walk around Astoria.
It’s not only very walkable but it’s a very fun a gentle way to see retro Astoria plus you can see the street where Arnie filmed Kindergarten Cop for The Elementary School scenes.
From Astoria to Cannon Beach
Cannon Beach – OREGON’s Fame & Beauty
Take the time to look for a boutique B & B which I feel would give you the best experience.
It’s a super famous location along Oregon’s beautiful and rugged coastline.
Do not overcomplicate your visit but do what the locals do.
Enjoy a good dinner. We headed to The Stephanie, which is the high-end option. Very pleasant, however a little dated, but we had a great meal and were looked after very well.
Day 3
Breakfast in a must and in North American its pancakes.
Have another walk along the beach.
The road to Manzanita
This next stage was really one of my favourites.
The sun was clear, crisp and the scenery, undulating with some truly stunning north American vistas such as the clifftop views looking down to Manzanita.
The drive along the Route 101 “The Oregon Coast Highway” hugs the coastline heading south past Hug Point, Arch Cape, Neahkahnie Mountain till you reach the wide-open bay of Manzanita.
I love that name Manzanita. It makes one feel one is getting closer to California, which you are. It’s a laid-back Pacific Northwest town and makes me think of Ray Manzarek who was the organ player with The Doors.
It is special.
In many ways its relatively untouched. The wide-open beach is to me a true reflection of the Pacific Northwest and definitely not European.
I am born in London, and I was with a born and bred Oregonian but someone who had spent time in London and Europe.
Both of us adored it and we could have quite happily found a space by the beach grasses to fall asleep. The sand was hot, and the sea air was just exhilarating. I felt a snapshot of hippie America.
We wandered to find some food, but it seemed the few places were sleep o’clock except a veranda of wine lovers in full flow and a rather beautiful Italian styled supermarket/deli where I grabbed a slice of pizza.
I feel Cannon Beach could have a little more of this. It may well be there but it’s the setting where you could see some simple beach restaurant/bar with wooden floors covered in sand and an open grill. Just a thought and some local artist houses creating art from the sea.
On The Road to Wheeler
Though I had to drag myself away from Manzanita the road was calling but after a short time I would find more beauty at Wheeler, which curves around The Nehalem River and then out into the bay. A perfect setting for filming with some kind of a mystery film.
In 2010 it had a population of 414 and was named after Coleman Wheeler, who opened a sawmill in the town and had a lumber business. I think this is why I loved it so. Magically peaceful, beautiful water and a true slice of Americana without the spin.
As you carry on going south on Route 101 you are soon met by the mighty Pacific Ocean.
Then you reach
Garibaldi
Next you come across this wonderful Italian sounding name Garibaldi, however the area was originally inhabited by the Tillamook People for the best part of 12000 years. Daniel Bayley was the first white property owner, after settling here after the civil war, building a hotel and a general store and in 1870 when in Italy Guiseppe Garibaldi unified Italy and so Bayley decided to name the post office after him and in 1946 Garibaldi was incorporated as a city.
These enclaves to a traveller are gold dust, no pun intended, as they paint pictures and the fact it has an authentic railroad, namely the Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad is magical. It makes me feel like John Wayne all over again and who acted in a movie called The Oregon Trail. The best bit was just wandering around the trains though I am not sure if this was allowed but created magical travel moments.
Through The famous Tillamook Forest
To me a feel a movie in my head. Its magical driving through and just doing nothing but taking it in.
Salem
Salem is the capital city of Oregon, with its domed Oregon State Capitol certainly has a grace about it. For me the great joy was the truest experience in just taking it all in. Let me explain. It’s very quiet, the roads are big, there is very little traffic, and it has a peace about it which creates a feeling.
From where I come from this is a rarity but then to see the emotions of being with someone who went to Willamette University, a private liberal arts university and the oldest in the Western United States and hearing their anecdotes this was truly special.
McMinnville wine Country
Prior to my visit to Oregon, I was having dinner at The Connaught Hotel in London and mentioned Oregon to the sommelier and was most complementary about Oregon Wine. McMinnville identifies as the centre of the well-developed wine industry in the Willamette Valley, which has hundreds of wineries.
Like a lot of US towns McMinnville is a highly structured town, built on a grid system so very quickly you understand where you are and as we found The Atticus Hotel I had found what I had been looking for which was a haven for peace in a beautiful independent hotel, full of character and very easy to relax in.
The Atticus Hotel has a mix of vintage Americana with some touches of a boutique European Hotel.
I highly recommend the hotel and town which can give you another slice of the Oregon experience but this time with a touch of money about it.
Not thrust in your face but it’s there which is not surprising as you are in wine country.
Dinner at Humble Spirit – Part of an increasing vogue they are a farm to table restaurant, celebrating the seasonal bounty of the Willamette Valley, focusing on regenerative farming and small-batch craft. Expect to be made to feel welcome and enjoy high quality, fresh, down to earth cuisine.
Keeler Estate Vineyards
Beatrice met us from The Keeler Estate Vineyards with a slightly inquisitive look which was due to the fact I was an hour late. Once I had got over my embarrassment, we were about to get a real feel for The Keeler Estate’s organic wines. A space in the countryside for wine, yoga, and to relax. Think Sideways with an Oregon twist.
Obviously, Oregon’s laid-back vibe was getting to me.
As you might expect the ecology is a central point of focus for them and a very special wine tasting experience was just about to commence for us lucky folk.
Up up and away. Evergreen Air Museum
Evergreen Air Museum might seem an add addition to your itinerary but as it’s there it really makes a fun couple of hours with Howard Hughes incredible “Spruce Goose” as the world’s largest flying boat and only made one brief flight in 1947, however it really is quite a sight.
In addition, you have a whole range of early flying machines, second world war planes and more. Well worth a visit.
We suggest you head back to Atticus for a second night and just let go as I was really taken by McMinnville. It has peace about it and is a perfect spot to relax and plan your next adventures.
Leave McMinnville early and head to Timberline for a late lunch.
Timberline Lodge
Drive up to Timberline Lodge, Mt. Hood for lunch and hike and a beer.
Really one of the jewels of Oregon history it was built in 1937.
A prized dividend from President Franklin D. Roosevelt social and economic package following the 1929 stock market crash. You are in ski territory servicing Mount Hood, rising up to 11,000 feet, and is a central focus for this part of Oregon.
And of course, the 1980 cult classic “The Shining” used this as a location.
Have a walk around the fantastic museum and just take in the feel. You are definitely in North America in the home of the lumbar world with significant native American expression in fabric design and much more.
Hike into Latourell Falls in the Columbia Gorge
On your day 6 or 7 I think this in many ways this is a good final experience to understand Oregon as nature, hiking and trails as my Oregonians call it is very important to them.
You are in Oregon the place where Native Americans meets The Hudson’s Bay Company traded meets Scandinavia in ideology and thinking.
For all of you with a religious heart, Oregon is quintessentially low church. It has a humble disposition and generally is about the quality of life, family and not the glitzy show off world. Probably why Portland is one of the most liberal cities in the US if not the world.
Luxury travel can indeed mean many things, but a genuine, untarnished life experience in our world a very special thing.
If you can, try to visit as you might just start to slow down and look at life differently.
Until we meet again, I leave you with the White Stag sign, also known as the “Portland Oregon” sign facing the Burnside Bridge in central Portland.
For more information do visit Travel Oregon
The Mouse says Keep it Weird!