Kanishka, luxury Mayfair Indian Restaurant
Atul Kochhar’s Kanishka: Deluxe Indian – Mayfair Restaurant. Do not mistake Mayfair’s Kanishka for just another Indian restaurant – yes, it serves Indian food but not as we have ever known it. The restaurant specialises in recipes from the relatively unknown Seven Sister region of North East India. The region borders Burma, China and Tibet and has over 300 ethnic communities whose kitchens produce an eclectic range of mainly meat-based dishes informed, among others, by Thai, Chinese, Nepalese, and Bengali cuisine. Anchored by Atul Kochhar, a multi-award-winning Michelin starred chef who previously worked at London’s Tamarind and Benares, Kanishka fuses Seven Sister’s culinary magic with locally sourced ingredients to deliver a genuinely unique and authentic tour de force of Indian cooking.
Kanishka – 17 – 19 Maddox Street, Mayfair, London, W1S 2QH
02039780978 www.kanishkarestaurant.co.uk
Luxury Indian Cuisine
The restaurant is based over two floors. Downstairs is largely a relaxed, ‘garden’ affair – the ceiling is covered in greenery, and plants generously adorn a light-feeling causal eating area. Upstairs is more elegant and sophisticated, chic even with the mirrors, bespoke bar and generous use of mood lighting – more in keeping with the surrounding neighbourhood (though it’s all slightly marred by the dumb waiter opposite the restaurant’s bar). Sitting at the bar before eating is recommended as the bartender is both friendly and knowledgeable, and eager to share his wares with you. A large selection of cocktails and wines are on offer as is some surprisingly good music – an ear-pleasing mix of Sitar and drum machine.
Modern Indian Dining
There’s a huge amount of variety on the menu: with an eight-course Tasting Menu (£110), A La Carte (up to £34) and a lunch-only Set Menu (2 courses for £29, 3 courses for £35) to choose from. While the A La Carte’s Lake District Lamb Patties and Gangtok Momos catch the eye, stand-out starters are both Atul’s signature Chicken Tikka Pie, a Tikka masala in puff pastry fused with a cumin scented berry compote, offering a unique luxury Indian pie lubricated with a fine wine, definitely not your usual Friday Night; and the Masala Mixed Grill which included a selection of tender and seasoned lamp chop, prawn, fish and chicken tikka served with a heavenly mint and coriander chutney sauce on the side and rounded off by the cool, citrus minerality of an excellent Wadding Duck Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.
Indian Butter Chicken
The impossibly high standards established by the starters are, thankfully, maintained by the mains. Dad’s Butter Chicken (yes, a recipe that was handed down from Atul’s Dad) combines tandoor cooked chicken tikka with a plum tomato and fenugreek gravy. The chicken was beautifully succulent carrying an ever-so-slight buttery taste and was heartily complemented by a basket full of delicious and delicate assorted Naan breads and pillow rice. This was exceptional tandoor cooking and a real treat. For those who are hungry and want more pie you cannot go wrong with a Biryani offering traditional Old Delhi style, sealed and baked lamb and aromatic rice, served with cucumber raita and chose the Kanishka Signature Black Dal and not drenched with a cold larger but indeed supported by a succulent red.
Peanut Butter Chikki Parfait
By now you will be full, there is no escaping it but push yourself to order a dessert (or two) if you can. The splendid Peanut Butter Chikki Parfait – caramel ice cream with vanilla sponge, Oreo crumbs and 24-carat gold leaf – is one of those desserts that could easily be ordered again – and again. You will not need a highly tuned sweet tooth to appreciate the interplay between the caramel ice cream’s rich but subtle sweetness and the soft textured, homey-flavoured sponge. Heaven. Traditionalists will feel quite righteous in choosing the Mango and Pistachio Kulfi with reduced milk Rabdi and nuts – really spot on.
Restaurant Service
All of this outstanding food would count for little if the service had been found wanting, but it wasn’t. Service is one of the restaurant’s many hidden gems. It is charming, friendly, well-versed and has that elusive quality of knowing when to appear and when to disappear – and is based on the simple philosophy of taking care of customers from entry to exit. Top marks.
Kanishka Indian Restaurant
If you’re looking for a solid Indian meal there are probably a number of decent choices to choose from in your local area but if you are looking for on-another-level Indian cuisine with any number of innovative gastronomic twists and turns courtesy of the originality of Atul’s cooking then book a table at Kanishka. There is nothing out there quite like it.
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